Anaga Rural Park: A Journey into Tenerife’s Ancient Enchanted Forest
The Anaga Rural Park is a world away from the sun-drenched beaches of the south. This rugged, emerald-green peninsula at the north-eastern tip of Tenerife is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and home to one of the world’s oldest living forests. With its razor-sharp peaks, deep ravines, and mist-shrouded laurisilva (laurel) woodlands, Anaga offers a prehistoric landscape that feels like a scene from Jurassic Park. Whether you are a dedicated hiker or a scenic driver, this guide will help you navigate the «Green Heart» of Tenerife.
🌲 Anaga’s Mystical Forests: The Laurisilva Experience
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The star of Anaga is its Laurisilva forest—a subtropical cloud forest that covered much of the Mediterranean basin millions of years ago. Today, Anaga is one of the few places on Earth where this «fossil forest» still thrives.
The Path of the Senses (Sendero de los Sentidos): Starting at the Cruz del Carmen visitor centre, this easy walk is perfect for families and those with limited time. It’s designed to let you touch, smell, and hear the forest’s ancient secrets.
The Enchanted Forest (El Pijaral): This is Anaga’s crown jewel—a prehistoric laurel forest so protected that only 45 people are allowed entry per day. Be warned: the area is strictly patrolled, and wandering in without a permit carries a 600€ fine. Securing a slot is a notorious holiday headache, as the Spanish-only booking site sells out in minutes. To bypass the «permit lottery,» we strongly recommend booking a certified guided tour or exploring the equally stunning (and 100% permit-free) Vueltas de Taganana route instead.
🏘️ Must-Visit Places: from villages to beaches
Anaga is a living cultural landscape where steep mountains meet the Atlantic. To see the best of this region, you must head to the coast.
Taganana: The most iconic village in the park. Its white-washed houses cling to the cliffs, offering a glimpse into traditional Canarian life. It’s the perfect spot to enjoy fresh local goat cheese and grilled octopus in any of the guachinches nearby.
Almaciga & Benijo Beaches: These are Tenerife’s most spectacular black sand beaches. Almaciga is a rugged surfer’s paradise, while Benijo—with its iconic rock formations—is arguably the most beautiful spot for sunset in all of Spain.
Pro Tip: While these wild shores are breathtakingly beautiful, the Atlantic currents here are extremely powerful. Enjoy the view and the sand, but exercise extreme caution if you decide to dip your toes in.
🥾 Top Hiking Trails: From the Forest to the Coast
Anaga is a hiker’s paradise. The trails here are more challenging than those in the Teide National Park due to the steep, humid terrain, but the rewards are unparalleled.
Benijo to El Draguillo: A coastal loop that offers the most dramatic views of the Roques de Anaga—gigantic rock formations rising from the ocean.
Cruz del Carmen to Chinamada: This trail takes you to a village where residents still live in cave houses carved into the volcanic rock. The viewpoint at the end, Aguaide, offers a 500-metre vertical drop to the sea.
Expert Insight: The weather in Anaga can change in seconds. One minute it’s sunny, the next you are inside a thick cloud. A guided tour is highly recommended for those unfamiliar with mountain microclimates.
📸 Best Panoramic Viewpoints (Miradores) in Anaga
If you are exploring by car, these stops are mandatory for your holiday photo album:
Mirador de Jardina: On a clear day, you can see the entire city of La Laguna with Mount Teide looming majestically in the background.
Mirador Cruz del Carmen: The gateway to the park and the best place to feel the «sea of clouds» rolling over the ridges.
Mirador Pico del Ingles: Offers a 360-degree view of the northern and southern coasts of the peninsula. The nearby «old road» (Camino Viejo) is a viral Instagram spot where the forest walls close in over the path.
🚗 Getting to Anaga Rural Park: Logistics
Reaching Anaga requires a bit more planning than the southern resorts.
By Rental Car: The most flexible way. From the south, take the TF-1 motorway to Santa Cruz and then head towards La Laguna/San Andres. Be prepared for narrow, winding hairpins—not for the faint-hearted!
By Bus (Guagua): The local bus company is called TITSA. Line 946 from Santa Cruz station (Intercambiador) runs to Taganana and Almáciga, but services are infrequent.
The Smart Choice: Because parking at Benijo and Cruz del Carmen is notoriously difficult, many visitors prefer an organized day trip. This allows you to look out the window at the scenery instead of stressing over the sharp corners.
❓ Anaga Rural Park: Essential FAQs
They are different worlds. Teide is volcanic and vast; Anaga is lush and vertical. If you love greenery and dramatic coastal cliffs, Anaga is a must.
Crucially, bring a waterproof jacket. Even in mid-summer, the trade winds bring mist and light rain to the peaks. Sturdy boots are essential as the trails can be slippery and muddy.
Playa de Benijo is arguably the most beautiful beach in Spain, but the currents are extremely dangerous. Only swim if you are a very strong swimmer, and never go too far out. Most people visit for the sunset and the photos.
Yes! Because La Laguna is the gateway to Anaga, it’s a perfect combination. Spend the morning in the forest and the afternoon exploring the cobbled streets of the UNESCO old town.